It’s the unofficial start of summer, and rising temperatures mean your social media feeds will soon be invaded by the infinity pools of Santorini, the cliff-clinging villages of Cinque Terre and the blooming lavender fields of Provence. Or, if your friends are particularly fashionable, the sun-baked terracotta roofs of Croatia’s Dalmatian coast.
“Croatia is huge,” says Andy Ross, product manager at Exodus Travels, a 40-year-old adventure travel company. In recent years, he has seen the country go from a booming destination to a “very, very well-known” destination. It is now the fastest growing European market for the company.
There’s a good reason for this: Croatia has more coastline than Portugal and France combined and more islands than the Maldives. Annual visitors to the country now quadruple the country’s population of 4.2 million.
But the increase in visits has become controversial. Dubrovnik, Croatia’s most visited city, has become so overrun with summer tourists that it, like Venice and Barcelona, is considering restricting tourism. (Thank you, Game of Thrones fans.) Ross says, “It’s (become) difficult to find a time of year to have a peaceful, authentic experience in Dubrovnik. »
In the neighboring Balkans, it’s the opposite: the same untapped natural beauty, a fascinating mix of cultures, but few crowds. And despite the complicated, war-torn history, the U.S. State Department now considers the Balkan states safer than most Western European countries.
Whether you start in Dubrovnik or go straight off the beaten track, here are the destinations to go for, whatever your type of trip. Your Mykonos-weary subscribers will thank you.
Best for Families: Lake Bled, Slovenia
While much of the region is exposed to summer heat, Slovenia remains more temperate, thanks to its lake-filled and forest-covered mountains. It also has relatively reliable infrastructure and high-end accommodation. According to Jonny Bealby, founder of pioneering travel agency Wild Frontiers, this accessibility and maneuverability make Slovenia an “ideal country for family travel”.
How much time you will need: five to seven days
What to see and do: Spend a day or two wandering the charming streets of Ljubljana, then head to the fairytale-like Lake Bled. Its 17th-century church, backed by the mighty Julian Alps, is one of the country’s most famous sites. But the region is not just about churches and castles; Nearby Triglav National Park, named after the country’s highest peak, has secret waterfalls, lakes and canyons to explore.
Vintgar Gorge, a mile-long ravine with family-friendly hiking trails clinging to limestone cliffs, is also a popular choice. A scenic 30-minute drive to Lake Bohinj offers gentler adventures: paddle boarding, kayaking tours and well-marked hikes. (Prioritize those at the roaring Savica Waterfall.) And for little kids, there’s the Vogel Cable Car, offering breathtaking views of the mountainous landscape.
Then head to Tromeja, a landmark near the small alpine village of Kranjska Gora to the north. Adults will enjoy the small-town charm, while children will enjoy crossing the border between Slovenia, Italy and Austria.
Where to stay: Book one of the 31 classic-style rooms at Vila Bled, the restored 1940s lakeside summer home of Josip Broz Tito, the late president of Yugoslavia.
Best for road trips: Durmitor National Park, Montenegro
This small country – about the size of Connecticut – is developing an outsized reputation for its beautiful Adriatic coastline and diverse national parks. Trains are limited and slow, so a car is necessary. But be careful: many of Montenegro’s single-lane roads without guardrails cling to the edge of cliffs. They are beautiful but not for the faint of heart.
How much time you will need: Three to five days
What to see and do: Fly to Dubrovnik and meander to Montenegro on roads that hug the cerulean Bay of Kotor. Set in the heart of the Dinaric Alps, the walled coastal town of Kotor has 14th-century city walls that are best explored at sunset, when golden light bounces off Romanesque churches and into the sparkling waters. Then, take a day to hike one of the two looming peaks of Lovcen National Park, where views of the rugged landscape once made George Bernard Shaw wonder, “Am I in heaven or on the moon?”
Along the mountainous country roads that lead to the lakeside town of Pluzine, you’ll find the Ostrog Monastery, a 17th-century Serbian Orthodox church built directly into the pink rock face of a vertical cliff. Next, head to Durmitor National Park, the country’s star attraction. The breathtaking route along the P14 highway winds along the Piva cliffs, through the agricultural foothills, and continues towards Crno Jezero, the “black lake” formed by the park’s glaciers. Your final stop: a few relaxing nights on the near-private islet of Sveti Stefan, which was once a 15th-century fortified coastal village and is now a spectacular Aman resort.
Where to stay: Bealby of Wild Frontiers recommends Poscenje Chalet, a small B&B near Durmitor whose owners double as expert adventure concierges.
Best for hikers: Accursed Mountains, Albania
The Albanian Alps, located in the northwest of the country, seem so impenetrable that locals call them the Cursed Mountains. But insiders have found they hold centuries-old cultural appeal and unspoilt natural wonders, making Albania one of Exodus Travels’ most in-demand emerging destinations.
How much time you will need: Four to five days
What to see and do: Start with a taste of local life in the ancient, mosque-filled town of Shkoder near the Montenegro border. There, old men play cards in the shade of city parks and young adults sip Turkish coffee on café terraces. Then board a boat to the picturesque village of Valbone, where an eight-hour mountain hike connects isolated villages to the dense Theth Forest via still-functional mule trails. At a dizzying height of 5,889 feet above the valley floor, you will reach Valbone Pass. From there, it’s a gentle descent through spongy forest paths dotted with pine trees before ending at the historic Catholic hamlet of Theth, after which the forest is named.
Where to Stay: A handful of quaint inns in Valbone Village let you walk out the door and straight onto the trails. The most comfortable is Rezidenca, a recent addition to the small, 13-year-old Rilindja guesthouse, offering oversized rooms with private bathrooms, a rarity in this undeveloped region.
Best for culture lovers: Mostar, Bosnia
Nearly demolished during a decade of Yugoslav conflict and the horrific Bosnian War, the historic city of Mostar, an hour or two’s drive from the Dalmatian coast, is emerging as the region’s cultural capital. Today it is a place where mosques from the 16th and 17th centuries combine well with contemporary street art.
How much time you will need: One to three days
What to see and do: The recently reconstructed Stari Most, an important example of 16th-century Islamic architecture whose name translates to “old bridge,” is picturesque enough to put this city on the map on its own: its tip arched throws a mirror. -like a reflection in the green waters of the Neretva River. It serves as a beacon for the city’s recovery, unlike certain buildings which still bear bullet holes as a lasting reminder of the ravages of war.
Today, more than 100 murals can be seen across the city. Some of the best can be found at the “Sniper Tower”, an eight-story bank building that once served as a base for Croats and Serbs during the conflict; it is now an artistic response to the crisis, with emotionally charged graffiti covering its peeling interior and pockmarked exterior walls.
Just a 20-minute drive along the Buna River, the 15th-century Sufi monastery of Blagaj Tekke offers a respite from all the intensity. It’s also convenient to Restoran Romanca, a traditional restaurant with picnic tables outside, white tablecloths inside, and an on-site vineyard.
Where to stay: Bealby books his guests into Hotel Kapetanovina, a small boutique property located in the center of Mostar, with stunning views of the famous bridge.
Best for city dwellers: Sofia, Bulgaria
Although it has been continuously inhabited since at least 7,000 BC (and boasts its share of Cold War bunkers and communist-era buildings), Sofia has become a modern destination. With excellent restaurants and shopping, as well as an impressive number of public parks, Bealby likens it to Prague, Budapest or Berlin, but quirkier and more affordable.
How much time you will need: Two to four days
What to see and do: Sofia’s wide boulevards, such as Oborishte Street and Vitosha Boulevard, are lined with cafes, art galleries and trendy boutiques, and are also great places for people-watching. Most restaurants offer regional twists on classic Balkan dishes (think grilled meat platters and oversized salads). Standouts include A:Part:Mental, located in an apartment with uniquely designed rooms and a menu of vegetarian and vegan dishes, and Rose, a light-flooded pan-European lunch spot that transforms into a purple-hued cocktail bar the night.
But Sofia’s story is too fascinating to ignore. Look no further than the golden domes of the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, the underground catacombs of Hagia Sophia, and the ancient Roman complex of Serdica, restored in 2016. Today, the 4th-century ruins are protected by a large dome of glass through which visitors can gaze above the bustling urban activity, a perfect blend of centuries-old culture and modern buzz.
Where to stay: At the stylish Sense Hotel Sofia, you can admire the lavish National Assembly and Alexander Nevsky Cathedral through floor-to-ceiling brass shutters.
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