Balkan countries are doing poorly this year UN report on world happinesswhich gave rise to a rather memorable headline in the regional press: “The Balkans are not very happy, says the UN”.
The two worst countries in the Balkans were Bosnia and Herzegovina, in 93rd position – well behind Libya and dictatorships like Turkmenistan and Belarus – and Albania, which, in 112th position, narrowly beats Iraq.
But when asked what my two favorite countries in the world are, I will always put Bosnia and Herzegovina and Albania at the top of the list. And I am not – I don’t think – a poverty tourist.
For many in Britain, the word Balkans conjures up images of brutalist, rotten towers, tragic histories and intractable wars. On a recent trip back to London from Sarajevo, where I currently live, I was asked several times if I had “become a war correspondent”.
But a lot of time has passed since the conflicts of the early 90s and in the Balkans – except for the most obvious destinations like Dubrovnik and Split – have the potential to bring much more joy to tourists.
The landscape that made Sarajevo so vulnerable to siege, now makes it one of the most beautiful capitals on the planet. It’s a city of glistening hills, stunning minarets and imposing Austro-Hungarian architecture. And yes, there is sadness behind the clichés of a mini Istanbul, where East meets West – ethnic politics mean that, even if mosques and churches rub shoulders, the country is becoming more and more segregated. But there is also the simple joy of the exchange. Unlike other, more obvious tourist destinations, the people of Bosnia genuinely want to tell you their stories and hear yours in return. Political torpor aside, there is still a certain enthusiasm in the city, a terribly dark sense of humor, a real desire to laugh and pour out another rakia in the face of catastrophe.
Sarajevo is one of the most beautiful capitals (Getty/iStockphoto)
(Getty Images/iStockphoto)
Albania may score lower than occupied Palestine in the World Happiness Index, but this impression is not visible on the ground. Some of my fondest travel memories come from this mysterious country – almost entirely isolated from the world under the dictatorship of Enver Hoxha. I remember spending a week in a fortress (Kruje Castle) and eating home-cooked food every evening inside the 5th century walls. Further north, in the Theth Mountains (one of Europe’s best little-known hiking destinations), I was happily foiled in my attempts to walk by a local family who summoned me to drink their homemade rakia, explained to me the story of the Accursed. Mountains, then introduced me to the neighbors.
There is something about the Balkan countryside that moves me in a way the orderly hills of Tuscany or the famous vistas of the south of France never could. The little-known train ride from Bar, on Montenegro’s Adriatic coast, to Belgrade is one of the most breathtaking train journeys I have ever taken. For 12 hours, 435 bridges and 254 tunnels, I found myself sitting in an old-fashioned dining car, feeling like a character in a Cold War movie. And I defy anyone to take a train in the Balkans without being offered half of your traveling companion’s picnic and a few stories, spoken or acted out.
Theth is Europe’s best little-known hiking destination (Getty/iStockphoto)
(Getty Images/iStockphoto)
Of course, there is always the danger of romanticizing places too much. These countries face deep, entrenched problems that explain their rankings in the Global Happiness Index: surprisingly high youth unemployment, extravagant political corruption and, in the case of Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Dayton Accord. – which ended the war but virtually enabled political progress. impossible.
However, as the value of the pound falls and cities like Venice and Barcelona experience chronic overcrowding, the appeal of the Balkans is only set to grow. The joy here does not lie in ticking off the obvious. Yes, there will usually be a tower that stands out in your photos. Yes, provisions for vegetarians sometimes involve the chef removing pieces of meat from the stew. No, you won’t find many boutique hotels to stay at on Foursquare.
But these countries free your mind and allow you to experience joy in a way that obvious destinations simply don’t. Because you will come without preconceptions, to meet some of the least austere people on the planet.